Tag Archives: chicken

Whyte & Brown, Carnaby Street

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The concept hatched in July 2013 and there has been a frenzy of excitement ever since. At Whyte & Brown they offer a menu inspired by free range chicken and eggs and, wow, do they get through a sizeable amount of each… to be precise 5000 eggs and 700 chickens a week! Located at a lovely spacious venue in the charming Kingly Court just off Carnaby Street, it is a popular weekend hang-out.

There are so many poultry possibilities and consequently we feasted on far too much food, eager to try every variety. To start, Crisp Chicken Shards are the ideal naughty nibbles… ultra thin and salty. Croquette balls are exemplary… truly delightful little mouthfuls, filled with shredded chicken, pancetta, lemon béchamel and chives. I could eat them all day. Harissa hot wings are very spicy but had a wonderfully rich flavour in the exotic marinade; served with caramelised orange wedges, coriander, and a minty yoghurt dressing, there is some refuge from the chillified wings.

For mains we followed our waiter’s instruction and tried the W&B Caesar Burger and the Brick Chicken. Neither were as addictively tasty as the starters, but were nonetheless clever chicken-inspired recipes. The burger is made with chicken thigh mince with caramelised onion, parmesan and aromatic seasoning, layered with tomato and presented in a grilled brioche bun. Serious chips are worth ordering on the side, super-skinny handcut and twice cooked for added flavour and extra crispy edges. The mashed potato however was a bit too lumpy for my liking. Brick Chicken is a more traditional dish, the ideal Sunday lunch. Made with the W&B signature seasoning using lemon, thyme, garlic and olive oil. It is crisp skinned and cooked three ways: the marinated breast, the slow-cooked thigh confit, and the 12-hour cooked wing. Served with a generous jug of homemade natural gravy, the meat was tender and juicy though the serving exceeded our eating abilities.

Unable to resist desert, we tried the Brownie and the Eton Mess. The brownie was too dry and uninteresting, the sort of desert that feels like wasted calories. Eton Mess was more of a success, a chaotic pile of fresh berries, broken meringue, lemon posset and, much to my delight, a sprinkling of popping candy on top. This pudding was fun for the palette, texture and flavour-wise.

Long and short refreshing cocktails are available at Whyte & Brown, perfect to accompany a long lazy Sunday lunch. We tried the golden ale based Peachalada and the popular Gin Spring Collins – both were light and well balanced, not interfering with the flavours from the food.

Whyte & Brown does exactly what it sets out to do, offering high quality, organic chicken and egg-inspired dishes with a pinch of creativity. The staff have a genuine enthusiasm for the concept and ensure every diner has a good time. Listen out for the seamless soundtrack, created by the brilliantly talented bespoke music consultants, Music Concierge.

With the recent restaurant trends obsessing over burger and steaks, it’s good to see some passionate poultry producers putting chicken and eggs in the spotlight.

More information and book here: whyteandbrown.com

THOROUGHLY MODERN MISS: CrackBird, Dublin

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I had received warnings shortly after arriving in Dublin that a trip to CrackBird could be dangerous, for, as the name implies, it can easily become an addictive habit. As a result, I held off until I had a particular visitor to stay who I knew would appreciate the opportunity to eat ‘posh KFC’ guilt-free.

Although essentially fried chicken is what CrackBird does, comparisons between this restaurant and that well known American fast food chain are meaningless. The owners of CrackBird are a very successful restaurateur team who also own Jo’Burger and Skinflint. These restaurants too, have taken the foods that we hate to love (burgers and pizzas respectively) and elevated them to new heights with quirky touches and culinary flair.

Located on Dame Street, just south of Temple Bar, the simplistic wooden banner above the full-length windows make CrackBird easy to spot among the neon lights of its neighbouring restaurants. And inside, the individuality of this busy spot continues, with walls decked with cool art works, wooden tables, and trendy looking staff. One look at your placemat, which handily doubles as the menu, will tell you that you really need to like chicken to enjoy a meal here. CrackBird does not falter in its intention to serve up Ireland’s most commonly eaten meat, but it aims to do so in an imaginative and most importantly, downright delicious, way.

CrackBird’s focus on chicken is so intense that the Menu is devoid of a single dessert. Certainly surprising, but it made us feel slightly less guilty about ordering a meal of a size to make the Irish rugby team proud. Between the two of us we chose a half-bucket (4 pieces – a thigh, drumstick, wing and a breast) of Buttermilk Chicken, the same order of Soy and Garlic Chicken, and some Chicken brochettes with a curry yoghurt crust. To accompany the star ingredient, we opted for some hand rolled croquettes, some sweet potato noodles, a carrot and cranberry salad, and on recommendation from friends who frequently visit CrackBird to feed their addiction, the burnt lemon and whipped feta sauce.

Like the style of the restaurant itself, the food was presented in a relaxed yet well-considered manner, which highlighted its inventiveness. Just managing to restrain ourselves until the waiter was a reasonable distance from our table, we delved into the buckets and commenced our chicken fix. The chicken was everything it should be: tender, juicy, and with expertly crisped skin. Both the buttermilk and the soy and garlic coatings gave great depth of flavour; the former offered both creaminess and a crunch, while the latter provided warmth and a well-measured saltiness. The curry yoghurt crust on the brochettes was another inspired topping, which worked perfectly with the sweetness from the carrot salad. The croquettes could have been marginally crispier, and I wasn’t taken with the noodles which, served cold, were a strange, almost slimy texture, but these were minor complaints. With a lashing of the feta sauce, which would have worked wonders on far inferior dishes, I was more than satisfied.

With chicken now so readily available at often very cheep (sorry) prices, it is easy to forget that it is a bird which, if cooked skillfully, can hold its own against its meatier rivals. A visit to CrackBird is a successful reminder of this, and it was a relief that the cost of the (exceptionally large) lunch was reasonable (€50), as I have no doubt I will be joining the crowds who give into temptation and head back for more.

More information here: www.joburger.ie/crackbird.html

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Miss, Lucy Freedman.

Wishbone, Brixton Market

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If you like chicken, you will love Wishbone. This trendy, casual eatery is the brainchild of food writer and chef William Leigh who aims to serve up ethically sourced, delicious, guilt-free fried chicken from its very own stylish surroundings in the infamous food hangout of Market Row in Brixton Market.

The UK is a nation of fried chicken lovers who regularly gobble battery chicken 3-piece meals from any one of the ‘something-FC’ establishments that can be found on the high street. Wishbone is here to change that. Wishbone offers a menu full of high quality, crispy, fresh-from-the-fryer chicken, plates of wings including twice fried, Korean style and their very own twist on the chicken burger. Alongside the birds and buns there is a range of simple, well chosen sides like slaw, black eyed pea salad and Mac ‘N’ Cheese Nuggets all to be washed down with selected craft beers.

William Leigh has spent the last four years researching and refining recipes as well as eating bucket loads of chicken across the world. From Brooklyn to Bangkok, he has sampled it all, using these experiences as the inspiration for Wishbone. Scott Collins of MEATLiquor joined Leigh in his chicken quest and helped him get his poultry dream off the ground. Amongst a book of closely guarded recipes, experienced and researched techniques and incredible ingredients, Wishbone hopes to become the definitive destination for fried chicken lovers.

William Leigh commented, “As a huge fan of fried chicken, I realised that for too long people have only ever been able to enjoy this classic, delicious US staple from battery farmed birds with low quality meat and this had to change. Wishbone will be taking something that was mistreated – overcooked, greasy, left in a hot cupboard for hours – and treat it as the hero.” On the Brixton location, Scott Collins added, “The decision to make Wishbone’s home Brixton was a pretty easy one. The food market’s growing reputation and Brixton’s diverse cultural roots will give Wishbone a truly distinct sense of community and soon become a home for friends looking for an ice cold beer and some hot, free-range, crispy chicken.”

This trendy restaurant-bar aims to please everyone with their offerings of moreish wholesome dishes and addictive cocktails. When I went along to the opening, I was devastated to miss nearly all the chicken, but I did sample the exquisite cocktails, very simple but delicious drinks made with a variety of different spirit bases.

Be warned most of the restaurants in Brixton market are closed on Mondays (including Wishbone) so I’d recommend visiting any other day. I’m hoping to return soon to try out the full menu.

More information here: www.wishbonebrixton.co.uk