Tag Archives: brunch

THOROUGHLY MODERN MISS: Whitefriar Grill, Dublin

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It is a big claim when a restaurant promotes themselves as “the best”, and one that in my experience invariably leads to disappointment, so it was with trepidation that I booked a table at Whitefriar Grill on Aungier Street for a lazy Sunday morning brunch. After a walk up the canal to build up appetites, we arrived at a modest restaurant front below a red awning. The lack of ostentation surprised me – for a restaurant so ready to boast about itself, I was almost anticipating a red carpet welcome. A step through the small porch brought us face to face with another unexpected addition – a DJ booth complete with DJ – not exactly the ideal hangover cure. Or so we thought.

Actually, the atmosphere in the compact restaurant was exactly what was needed for the occasion. The DJ played well, with a good mix of well-known tracks and a few more eclectic jazz sounds, but nothing which interrupted conversation. Like its exterior, the inside of the restaurant is devoid of flashiness: exposed brick walls, wooden furniture and a central wooden bar keep things simple, with flashes of red from the curtains, a few quirky art works on the walls, and little plants in metal plant pots adding just enough detail to keep things interesting.

The restaurant was buzzing with fellow brunch-goers, many of whom appeared to be regulars, satisfied that they had settled on the best brunch spot in town. Despite the constant stream, service was slick but also friendly. My companions had suitcases which were immediately taken by the Maître D’, and a jug of water and glasses appeared on our table without request. Small things maybe, but they were noticed and appreciated.

So far, the Whitefriar Grill was ticking all the boxes, but obviously, the proof is in the eating, and so we began a comprehensive examination of the menu. If I am out for dinner, or even for lunch, I normally look to try something new, and appreciate a chef who picks unusual ingredients. However, brunch is the ultimate comfort food, and alongside twists on the classics, I was hoping for the choice of some old favourites: there are some dishes that just shouldn’t be messed with. Fortunately, the chefs at Whitefriar Grill agreed with me, and the Menu was an excellent balance of familiar flavours and a few more ‘exotic’ options. While we deliberated, we enjoyed the Whitefriar’s virgin cocktail, L’Orange – muddled orange with grenadine, fresh limes, sugar and topped with 7Up – which was not too sweet and deliciously refreshing.

After much consideration, between us we opted for the ‘Whitefriar Grill’, the ‘Vegetarian Eggs Benedict’, and the ‘Gambas Benedict with spinach, avocado salsa and lemon hollandaise.’ All three dishes were cleanly presented on rectangular white plates. The lack of distracting garnishes demonstrated the restaurant’s confidence in its food, and rightly so, as it all looked incredibly tasty. The meat components of the Whitefriar Grill were all top quality – the black pudding was a particular high point. The lack of toast was a little surprising, and we were slightly taken aback by having to pay an extra €2 for a side, but it was properly grilled sourdough bread so our irritation was swiftly forgotten. The Gambas Benedict was a very intelligently constructed dish. There was just enough lemon both to cut through the richness of the hollandaise and to complement the gambas. The subtle heat from the avocado salsa added an extra dimension, and the muffin was lovely and light, and acted as the perfect sponge for the sauce. Both the Benedicts came with thick cut chips: an unnecessary but nevertheless, welcome addition, especially when they were dipped into the homemade baked beans accompanying the Whitefriar Grill.

Full, but willing to indulge our sweet teeth on a special treat, we ordered the chocolate fondue to round off the meal. The proportions of the dish were a little out – we ended up inelegantly spooning the chocolate from the fondue bowl once we had finished off the pineapple chunks, homemade marshmallow and some out of this world peanut butter fudge – but the chocolate was excellent quality so this wasn’t too much of a problem.

I am hesitant to accept the Whitefriar Grill’s label as the ‘best brunch spot in Dublin’, but this is mainly because there are so many alternatives I have yet to try that it would be unfair to agree without further investigation. However, I am happy to conclude that for atmosphere, service, price (our bill came to €45), and most importantly, for food, the Whitefriar grill deserves a great deal of praise. Without any pretension, it delivers exactly what is needed on a Sunday morning.

More information: www.whitefriargrill.ie

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Miss, Lucy Freedman.

Riding House Cafe, Great Titchfield Street

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I’ve been to this breakfast mecca too many times to count but have never got around to writing about it; perhaps because everyone already knows about this restaurant, at least they seem to as it is busy all day every day. Bookings are not imperative but seriously recommended, especially if you want a decent table.

The Riding House Cafe is a modern all-day brasserie near Oxford Circus offering award-winning breakfasts and a delicious supper menu of hearty British classics. There is a private dining room available and free wifi.

I have sampled the majority of the menu, either on my plate or on my companion’s. From the extensive list, I have my firm favourites. The Buttermilk Pancakes are the perfect girly choice with berries, vanilla clotted cream and maple syrup at £7. The Orkney Bacon Sandwich in buttered crusty white bread with avocado is simply irresistible, especially with a good grind of black pepper.

Of the extortionately pricey but incredibly yummy juices and smoothies, I’d recommend the Rickshaw (pineapple, apple, strawberry and lime) £5.50 or the wackier PB & J (peanut butter, banana, strawberry and apple juice) £5.50. I promise myself every time that I will skip the juice, but never manage to resist once inside.

Coffees are good but not exceptional and with my favourite Australian cafe, Kaffeine across the road I usually pop in there after for my coffee fix.

Always reliable and tasty, Riding House Cafe remains the best of the bunch for breakfast in London.

More information here.

www.ridinghousecafe.co.uk

Bubbly Brunch, The Grill on the Market, Smithfields

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I can imagine The Grill on the Market is overwhelmed with visitors during the week, but when it comes to the weekend this amazing British bistro is eerily empty. So it seems logical that for weekends only, diners can opt for the Bubbly Brunch, a great incentive and a brilliant way to celebrate Saturdays!

All you have to do is book ahead, go along with two or more friends and each order a main course either from the Brunch or Lunch main menus. Then, like magic, (for a two hour period) your bottomless glass of Prosecco will appear, always full. With brunch courses starting at just £9 it is ludicrously good value for money!

Full of enthusiasm, our waiter was wonderfully entertaining throughout our lunch at the restaurant. He was efficient, knowledgeable and friendly, so nice that I wanted to give him a hug when we left. Even now, a week later, the stand-out service remains one of the most memorable things about my experience at Grill on the Market.

Near to the famous Smithfields Market, the produce is the very freshest and finest. After delicious garlic rub bread we had to make the difficult decision of what to have for main course. It was inevitable at a grill restaurant that we would both be wooed by the tempting assortment of steaks. Alongside the standard Aberdeen Angus steaks, Grill on the Market offer a speciality ‘Best of British’ shortlist of seasonal treats. We chose the Limousin x Galloway Fillet with Bearnaise sauce and the Red Hereford Ribeye with peppercorn sauce. Both were exquisite specimens of meat: juicy, tender, with lovely marbling and unforgettable flavour. Although I’m not usually a Ribeye fan, I couldn’t fault this cut.

One portion of hand cut chips and petits pois a la Francaise suited us perfectly – plump peas coated in indulgent buttery onion sauce, and fat soft chips to dunk in our steak juices. Along with the endless Prosecco, it was the ideal Saturday brunch.

Unable to resist we finished with two desserts from the list of classics: scrumptious sticky toffee pudding and wonderfully warm chocolate fudge cake to complete the ultimate luxurious lunch.

More information and book here.