Author Archives: Milly

HMS Pinafore, ENO

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HMS Pinafore, ENO

As the orchestra kicked off the overture to Gilbert and Sullivan’s cheerful operetta, I racked my brains to where and when I had heard this music last, I felt like I knew every melody already. It occurred to me later that I must have performed in a production of HMS during my childhood singing days, though even those who aren’t acquainted with the music will quickly feel familiar – it is an upbeat and repetitive score that you cannot help but tap your foot along to.

The dictionary defines an operetta as ‘a short opera, usually on a light or humorous theme and typically having spoken dialogue’. In contrast to the heavier, classic tragic operas these compositions will usually attract a more varied audience, despite the old-fashioned nature of the humour. For this ENO revival, directed by Cal McCrystal, there is an extra element of fun with the addition of well-known TV presenter and comedian, Mel Giedroyc, who adds modern quips and slapstick silliness to the show.

We join Captain Corcoran and his daughter Josephine as they journey the seas on board the HMS Pinafore, navigating the ultimate conundrum of duty vs love. I felt particularly safe with the vocal abilities of Eleanor Sanderson-Nash as Josephine and Marcus Farnsworth as the Boatswain, but was less enamoured with Rhonda Browne’s boisterous Buttercup and Bethan Langford’s rendition of Hebe, which was just not loud enough. The comedic timing and movement throughout was brilliant and full of energy, and choreographer Lizzi Gee should feel very proud of the cast – it is not always the case that an operatic ensemble can dance a complicated routine in time and with confidence! Frivolous colour and nautical jolliness is added by takis’ costumes and set design.

As is always the case, the orchestra play with masterful precision, led by conductor Matthew Kofi Waldren in the pit. It was a joy to witness this production of HMS Pinafore alongside my grandmother, who like me, trained to be a singer. And at a time when theatre (and opera in particular) feels so precarious it was heart-warming to see the London Coliseum full to the rafters with audience members young and old.

Continues at The Coliseum until 7th February, book here.

(I received press tickets to this production)

Five ‘out of the ordinary’ dining experiences in London

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Pain Perdu at The Ninth

Affordable Michelin-starred dining

The Ninth

It’s not easy to find a reliable, yet distinctive early dinner spot in central London, but whether you’re heading to the theatre later in the evening or just want to get home a little earlier now the nights are drawing in, it’s a desirable option! Enter The Ninth, a relaxed one Michelin star restaurant in Fitzrovia offering a two or three course set early dinner menu six days a week (alongside their a la carte dishes). It’s good-value, intimate, and chic and the guests are made to feel special with a level of care and familiarity that is perfectly balanced. I appreciated the little touches used to take dishes to the next level: wafer thin slices of pickled pumpkin atop the crispy risotto, tomato added as a twist to a classic aioli, and crème fraiche in the sour cherry ice-cream creating a harmonious combination of sweet and tart flavours. The very best The Ninth has to offer though is of course the legendary Pain Perdu & Tonka Bean Ice-Cream. With a crisp, caramelised shell and soft, light centre, it is reason enough to visit this neighbourhood restaurant at any time!

MUST ORDER: Pain Perdu & Tonka Bean Ice-Cream

Dine in a London landmark

Apple Menu, Saison by Mauro Colagreco, OWO Hotel

Walking into the Old War Offices on Whitehall feels as though you’re being given special access to a secret part of our country’s past. The building is steeped in history, and since its extensive renovation, luxury too, with warmly lit corridors now leading to bedrooms, rather than offices. The UK’s first Raffles Hotel has made this iconic building its home, and nestled in the centre is the old library, now an inviting dining room housing Saison by three-Michelin starred chef Mauro Colagreco. It’s a peaceful, quietly opulent backdrop for refined yet comforting food. The Apple Menu gives Colagreco the perfect opportunity to combine his delicate Mediterranean cooking with the best British produce, namely apples, celebrating their season with a two or three course set menu. The reds and greens of various apple varieties beautifully ornament the light, balanced dishes, and the texture and sweetness of the fruit is cleverly adapted to contribute in different contexts. For me, the Granny Smith Apple Risotto is the standout dish; the unassuming little cubes of apple add dimension, cutting through the savoury, creamy rice. In some dishes, the apple is very much the star of the show; perhaps unsurprisingly this is definitely the case for the two desserts: exquisite little homages to this humble British fruit.

MUST ORDER: The seasonal risotto

Eat in an art gallery

Locatelli, National Gallery

The beautifully renovated Sainsbury’s Wing of the National Gallery houses Giorgio Locatelli’s casual, yet refined Italian restaurant, which opened earlier this year. It is assured, warm, and welcoming, in a dining room that is airy and relaxed, whilst feeling connected to the bustling gallery surrounding it. Diners have the privilege of eating their elevated antipasti, lovingly made fresh pasta, and classic desserts next to Paula Rego’s much-celebrated largescale painting ‘Crivelli’s Garden’. It’s a truly arty lunch; studying a painting whilst digging into your burrata! I went away dreaming of the next time I’ll have the treat of a ragu that morish, or a chocolate cake that intense in flavour and fudgy in texture.

MUST ORDER: Chocolate Cake

Try Ukrainian food

Tatar Bunar

This earthy, calm restaurant describes its food as ‘cuisine inspired by Ukraine’, but I would go further and say that a love and respect for Ukraine is the beating heart of everything Tatar Bunar does. If you’ve never tasted Ukrainian food before, prepare for an education from a passionate team of Ukrainian foodies, one of whom is dedicated to preparing varenyks (Ukrainian dumplings)by hand in a designated part of the centrally placed kitchen. I was informed that the Cottage Cheese Varenyks with Mushroom Mousse were unmissable (they were so tasty), but next time I go I might only order dumplings so I can try other varieties! They are more delicate and lighter than their Polish cousins, pierogi, and expertly crafted. Tatar Bunar presents wholesome, classic Ukrainian dishes with beautiful care and appreciation, combining sorrow-tinged nostalgia and celebration. Ultimately, it’s a warm, uplifting experience to share these Ukrainian plates with people you love whilst learning about and preserving a distinctly delicious food culture.

MUST ORDER: Cottage Cheese Varenyks with Mushroom Mousse

An experience like no other

Punk Royale

A small crowd was gathering on the street in Mayfair by the time my guest and I arrived, all searching for the unassuming black door to transport us into the world of Punk Royale. The restaurant’s illusive character extends far beyond its humble exterior; rumours are all that most can share about what happens inside. Shepherded in, you enter a room of contradictions, full of people prepared to spend hundreds of pounds for a one-off experience, but in a dining space that looks like the rear room of a club. However, there at the back, quietly bustling, focussed and poised, is the shiny kitchen ready to unleash 20+ whimsical courses on an unsuspecting audience. The experience is a cross between promenade theatre and those immersive horror shows where actors wearing scary masks jump out at you, but here it’s actually a waiter tapping you on the shoulder to spoon a mysterious liquid into your mouth. The playlist sounds like two people with wildly different music tastes fighting over the aux cable; at times raucous, at others hypnotic, it truly helps you get lost in the all-encompassing experience of the meal. What happens in Punk Royale stays in Punk Royale and I think this suits the people who go a bit wild there on a Saturday night, but what I will say is that what I ate I very much enjoyed! The food is playful, punchy, and provocative. My favourite dishes were the mushroom broth that looks like a baby Guinness shot, the ‘taste of Sweden’ bite, and the nutty, creamy, fruity licking plate. It’s exclusive, grungy, high-octane fun, but where the beauty lies is in the balance between the joie de vivre mentality that shapes the concept and the precision and discipline that allows the small team to expertly perform a logistical feat every service. I think these Swedish mavericks should keep it up!

MUST ORDER: Just tell them in advance if there’s something you don’t eat!

Written for Thoroughly Modern Milly by Eloise Kenny-Ryder.

Family Shows in London this Christmas

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This Christmas I am fully embracing festive shows. With my kids hitting 3 and 5 recently it feels like the ideal time to jump head first into jolly seasonal performances with ballet, music and everything else these magical experiences bring. I’ve highlighted a few favourites below, some which are suitable for all ages, a few which are particularly brilliant for 5+.

The Nutcracker

The Nutcracker, The Coliseum – Thu 11 Dec 2025 – Sun 11 Jan 2026

A classic for good reason, the English National Ballet’s production of the Nutcracker always delivers. The famous score by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky is brought to life by choreography by Arielle Smith and artistic direction from Aaron S. Watkin. It’s the second year of this spectacular production – I particularly love the fantastical sweetie costumes, sumptuous set details and the always joyful dancing.

Hansel & Gretel, New Wimbledon Theatre – Fri 21 Nov – Sun 23 Nov 2025

This 40 minute show is a brilliant introduction into the beautiful world of ballet. The Let’s All Dance ballet company presents this captivating new ballet, adapted from the original Brothers Grimm fairytale. The show has expressive music and staging, a vibrant retelling of the classic tale. Best of all – it’s suitable for all, but especially recommended for 2-12 year olds and those with special needs.

The Snowman, Peacock Theatre – 22 Nov 2025 – 4 Jan 2026

A Christmas staple! Back for its 28th year, The Snowman is a magical stage adaptation of the much-loved picture book by Raymond Briggs. This familiar story is always enchanting thanks to the Sadler’s Wells team – directed by Bill Alexander featuring music and lyrics by Howard Blake (including the song Walking in the Air), spectacular design by Ruari Murchison, magical lighting by Tim Mitchell, and amazing choreography by Robert North, all of which is accompanied by a live orchestra.

Santa’s North Pole Adventure, New Wimbledon Theatre – Thu 11 Dec – Wed 24 Dec 2025

An enchanting adventure for 3–8 year olds at New Wimbledon Theatre. Get excited for the festive season while helping Santa with his Christmas preparations – expect fun, laughter and plenty of audience participation. Look out for Rudolph and the dancing polar bear and don’t forget your camera to get a photo with the season’s main man!

Paddington the Musical, Savoy Theatre – 11 Nov 2025 – 25 Oct 2026

A brand new musical for the whole family featuring everyone’s favourite bear. This unmissable major new production at the Savoy Theatre is jam-packed with irresistible songs and dazzling choreography. Based on the iconic characters from Michael Bond’s books and the award-winning films, Paddington The Musical is directed by Luke Sheppard, with original music and lyrics by Tom Fletcher and book by Olivier Award-winner Jessica Swale.Children 4+ welcome, but particularly recommended for 6 year olds and up.