Whatever your craving there is always somewhere to satisfy it in Shoreditch. And now vegans can rejoice with the arrival of Essence Cuisine, a plant-based restaurant with a creative menu devised by American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney.
From the stylish and discreet black exterior Essence gives nothing away. Inside you are immediately greeted with a fridge for takeaway treats, and small moveable booths offer guests an option for a quick sit-down lunch. There is one larger table… perhaps a more friendly and sociable way to enjoy your meal.
The design is sleek and modern, which I liked, but the choice to have harsh yellow lights made it feel like nighttime even in the middle of the day.
The menu is varied and descriptive, using seasonal ingredients, usually in their raw form, to create food that is hearty and full of flavour. On the whole I was impressed with the selection we tried… Spicy Carrot sushi (with Nori, Jalapeño Cream, Avocado, Carrots and Beetroot Sprouts) was punchy in flavour and had a great texture. I particularly liked them dunked in the soy sauce which added a lovely saltiness to the assortment of vegetables.
Heirloom Tomato Lasagna was made with layers of Sundried Tomato Marinara, Pistachio Pesto, Macadamia Ricotta and Herb Oil. It looked pretty and tasted good, crunchy courgette impersonated pasta, and inside a rich tomato sauce worked well with the nutty pulp and pesto.
The Christmas special came with high praise from our waiter… Porcini Stroganoff (Butternut Tagliatelle, Walnut Crumble, Sunflower Parmesan and Basil). It was an amazingly creamy dish, considering the lack of dairy… indulgent woody mushroom infused sauce and some nice textural balance from the butternut. I couldn’t work out where or what the sunflower parmesan was, but quickly forgot I was looking for it.
For dessert we tried the Raw Coconut and Banana Pancakes from the brunch menu, which I wasn’t such a fan of. The actual pancakes were a heavy texture, which I found unpleasant to chew. They were topped with a vanilla coconut cream which I found too savoury and candied walnuts and berries. Perhaps I’m just too fond of the original, sinful American kind to accept this healthy imposter!
I arrived at Essence sceptical and left almost convinced that a plant-based diet could be as tasty and filling as a meal that doesn’t exclude so many major food groups. With a menu which only serves food free of meat, dairy, gluten and refined sugar Essence will surely be a revelation for some of London’s eaters.
More information about Essence Cuisine here.