The Glasshouse, Kew

The Glasshouse is part of a family of restaurants that includes my beloved Chez Bruce and La Trompette, two eateries that are firmly on my ‘favourites list’ and that I recommend to enquirers every day. Keen to know the third in the gastronomic trio, I went along to try the award-winning food at The Glasshouse last month to celebrate a special occasion. Just a few steps from Kew Bridge overground and underground station this local restaurant is relaxed and has a lovely neighbourhood feel. Like its sister establishments, The Glasshouse thrives outside the centre of town, managing to keep prices slightly lower and the atmosphere calmer due to the less business prone clientele.

Head chef Berwyn harks from north Wales. He joined The Glasshouse team in 2012 as sous-chef, having previously cooked at some excellent restaurants including La Trompette. He took over as head chef in summer 2013; his extensive travelling and culinary experiences in India, the far east, New York and Australia all inspire his constantly changing menu. With a background in British and French cooking, he continues in the genre of cuisine which was already established at The Glasshouse, his innovative curiosity and flawless technique lead him to create classic but creative recipes.

If you can escape work for a lazy lunch it is the ideal time to visit The Glasshouse to make use of their very reasonable £27.50 menu for three courses from Monday to Saturday or £32.50 on Sundays. Dinner is priced at £42.50 for three courses every evening.

We were seated at a quiet table, where we were able to survey the entire restaurant surrounding us. The next table was engaging in a particularly interesting conversation reciting their favourite fine dining venues in London to each other and offering feedback… it was very valuable information for my future restaurant escapades. They seemed impressed with The Glasshouse food which boded well for our meal I thought… in due course menus, water and aromatic olive bread was delivered to our table as we pondered what to choose.

We both spotted the same highlights on the menu, I traded a main for my starter of choice, avoiding unnecessary duplication! The Hare tagliatelle with prosciutto, Portobello mushrooms and grilled spring onions sounds like a heavy dish but it was lovely and light. Homemade pasta cooked perfectly with a creamy sauce flavoured with woody ingredients and a meatiness from dainty pieces of hare. Bresse pigeon with spiced leg pastille, hazelnuts, foie gras and glazed figs showed an obvious Moroccan influence, a sweet dish with unusual flavour combinations.

All the main courses sounded appealing, we opted for the lamb and beef dishes. Slices of lamb arrived with a miniature pie, lyonnaise onions, salsify purée , buttered carrots and rosemary jus, an assortment of delicious components though it was served slightly tepid in temperature. Rump of beef was hearty and comforting, a divine cut of tender meat drizzled in an accomplished red wine sauce. Hand cut chips were so precisely rectangular they looked like building blocks. I found them a little dry, and though it would have been very inappropriate, I considered asking for some mayonnaise for them.

Burnt vanilla cream with poached rhubarb, champagne foam and pistachio biscotti was a refreshing and summery dessert. In complete contrast Valrhona chocolate mousse with milk ice cream, honey tuile and iced coffee was richer and a strange combination of strong flavours.

Luckily we didn’t have far to go for the ride home. The Glasshouse is the highlight of Kew’s restaurant scene and offers food that is sophisticated but unpretentious, fine dining for everyone to enjoy.

More information and book here: www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk

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