Brunch at Naamyaa, Angel

Naamyaa is the first Bangkok cafe in London… an authentic representation of the eateries that feed so much of the Thai population. Well travelled fans of Thailand may be surprised by the split menu which includes some Western familiars as well as the more exotic Eastern favourites. These cafes are most often hidden away in the shopping areas of Thai cities providing sustenance for the hungry locals visiting the blissfully air conditioned centre to shop and eat.

The London restaurant, which comes from Busaba guru Alan Yau, is named after the signature dish on the menu. Naamyaa is a classic Bangkok Breakfast of warm Kanom Jin Noodle served with a plate of pickled morning glory, star fruit, free range soft boiled egg, Thai herb & clear soup. Delicious, comforting and easily personalised according to individual preference.

Occupying a huge space near Angel tube station, the venue could easily be bare and uninteresting but, thanks to the eclectic decor and design, manages to exude character. The central kitchen is very involving and the amazing golden ladies (each and every one is blessed by monks) add some glitz and glamour to the main room.

Naamyaa is now offering a plethora of unique brunch choices, both Eastern and Western inspired. If you want something more familiar try the wonderfully textured corn fritter with crispy bacon, rocket and aioli. If you’re feeling more daring (which I would definitely urge) opt for a more authentic Bangkok dish. We tried the following:

Khao dtom: Thai rice porridge with pork, soft boiled egg, Asian celery, ginger & pork broth.

Changmama’s pan-fried turnip cake with Chinese chive & beansprouts

Rice cake salad with cucumber, ginger, mint & peanut with sweet Thai sauce

Naamyaa with green chicken curry

Morning glory with yellow bean, Thai garlic & red chilli

Satay gai: chicken satay with peanut sauce

Jasmine tea smoked baby back pork ribs

I expected to dislike some of the more curious sounding dishes, but found these to be my favourites. Thai rice porridge with pork is wonderfully warming and light with tender meat. Turnip cake is strangely addictive, soft sweet cubes in a lovely dressing. If you like ribs you will love the Naamyaa jasmine smoked variety, they are melt-in-the-mouth exquisite with a hint of exotic jasmine and a sticky coating.

We experienced a range of the drinks on offer… the freshly infused lemongrass tea with honey was my favourite, a soothing blend ideal for sore throats. Jasmine mango is pretty amazing too, a much thicker fruity drink. There are seven breakfast smoothie options… my guest loved the Maca Peach which uses the ancient Peruvian herb, a superfood for rejuvenating energy levels mixed with white peach, milk and banana, I wasn’t a massive fan.

I was relieved to see an absence of jelly rice type Thai desserts, instead we ordered two subtle ice-cream based dishes. I can particularly recommend the Mascarpone ice-cream with strawberry coulis and Thai basil: refreshing, sweet with extra tasty grated young coconut, it would complement any meal.

Naamyaa got our seal of approval all round. Great for brunch, lunch, breakfast or dinner.

For an Eastern twist on the typically Western tradition of brunch, head to Alan Yau’s Bangkok-inspired cafe.

407 St John St., EC1V 4AB‎; 020 3122 0988

More information here: www.naamyaa.com

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