Things to do in Kyoto

A visit to Japan would not be complete without a trip to Kyoto, the country’s cultural capital. From Tokyo you can hop onto the high-speed train and reach Kyoto within 3 hours, and it is so worth it even if just for a couple of days. The air feels cleaner, the streets are calmer and the Japanese traditions are much more present in even the smallest details. It is real Japan without the hype and chaos.

Kyoto

To Stay

The Suiran – The recently opened Suiran hotel is on the outskirts of town surrounded by significant temples and gardens. Located in the beautiful Arashiyama area, the district was once the destination for the emperor’s summer holidays. This boutique hotel is traditional but luxurious with open-air baths, an authentic tearoom and a Kaiseki (multi-course menu) restaurant. Be sure to leave time to visit nearby attractions like the Monkey Park, Tenryu-ji temple and the magical Sagano Bamboo Forest.

Hotel Anteroom – The accommodation options in the historic city of Kyoto vary from exclusive traditional ryokans to cheap, trendy hostels. Hotel Anteroom is a brilliant option for those desiring the privacy and comfort of a hotel at low cost. Design conscious bedrooms, stylish common spaces and an art gallery on site, it is a great base for chic travellers who want to explore the city.

Kyoto

To Eat

Yamamoto Menzo(u) – A favourite with tourists and locals for unbeatable traditional udon. After waiting in line patiently you will be pleased to get inside to feast on the flavoursome noodles and burdock or chicken tempura. The daily-made noodles have an amazingly light and bouncy texture and the broth has the perfect balance of umami.

Kappa Sakamoto – I can highly recommend this tiny, family run restaurant as a great place to try the traditional Kaiseki style of dining. Sakamoto was founded in 1977 by Keisuke Sakamoto and his son Ryuta is now the chef. In 2010 the restaurant was awarded a Michelin-star. Sit at the counter and let the chef treat you to a meal of his finest seasonal dishes.

Ten-yu – This famous tempura restaurant only has ten seats at the counter. We ordered the simple lunch menu, Tempura with rice donburi. The tempura was light and delicious, especially tasty when dipped in the sauce and daikon. The restaurant is minimalist and stylish, needless to say, we were the only tourists in a room of locals.

Kyoto

To Drink

Tsubomi – This quiet, unsuspecting, little shop and cafe is the perfect place to stop for afternoon tea and cake after a long day of sightseeing.

Arabica% – A trendy speciality coffee shop in the Arashiyama area. This small contemporary cafe serves amazing coffee to go that will warm you up as you wander through this enchanting part of Kyoto.

Gion Niti – A hidden bar in the Gion district ideal for a nightcap or light dinner. We enjoyed the strong Charlie Chaplin cocktail and Italian food snacks like martinated eggplant and Jamon Iberico pizza.

Rocking Chair – Recognised as one of the best cocktail bars in town, this stylish establishment is frequented by discerning drinkers. Let the experienced mixologists make you their own creation, I opted for a Japanese Hibiki whiskey based drink.

Ogawa Coffee – A modern coffee house in Kyoto station serving some excellent coffee. Go for their house blend which is smooth and flavoursome.

Kyoto

To See & Do

Shoren-in Garden – A buddhist temple built in the late 13th century, it is a quiet and intimate building to wander round and is surrounded by colourful tranquil gardens.

Geishas in Gion – It is amazing to see a Geisha shuffling through the Gion district of Kyoto, but sightings are rarer and rarer as they try to avoid the tourists by using quiet backstreets to move about town. If you buy a place at a prestigious tea ceremony with a Geisha it will cost you over £100! Instead head to Gion Corner where you can buy a ticket to a cultural show to learn about tea ceremonies, traditional flower arranging and the Geisha customs.

Fushimi Inari Shrine – This is the head shrine of Inari, located in Fushimi-ku, in Kyoto. It has become one of the most recognisable images from Japan. The shrine sits at the base of the Inari mountain and includes trails and paths through the hundreds of wondrous red gates.

Funaoka Onsen – This is one of the oldest and most authentic bathhouses still in operation in Kyoto. Since 1923 locals and travelers have been coming here to soak their bodies in the waters and relax in this retreat. The baths are separated by gender and you are expected to go into the waters completely naked!

Kyoto

To Shop

Ichizawa Shinzaburo – This family-run canvas bag company has been in business for over 100 years producing aesthetic, simple and functional products. The bags are handmade from the finest strong canvas in a variety of colours and styles.

Morikage Shirt Shop – I fell in love with the unique and stylish shirts in this small boutique. The shop opened in 1993 as a made-to-order, customised shirt company. Now you can also buy them off the rack in a variety of materials and designs. I bought a green shirt with ruffles that is now a treasured part of my wardrobe.

Kyoto Design House – An emporium in the centre of town filled with hand-crafted products from designers across Kyoto and Japan. Pick up an inspiring gift for friends like the little boxes of traditional sweets.

Pass the Baton – Found in a redesigned traditional wooden townhouse, this diverse concept store stocks fun vintage accessories and modern homeware. There is also a tea and sake room on the premises.

Aritsuga Knives – Japan is known for the quality of its knives, and Aritsugu, a knife specialist in Nishiki Market, makes some of the best in the country. When you visit, the staff will examine your hands to ensure you pick the perfect knife for you. 

Nishiki Market – This bustling marketplace in downtown Kyoto sells every food product you could ever imagine. Wander through trying delicacies as you go, soaking up the atmoshere.

Kira Karacho – This sophisticated stationery brand is headed up by a husband and wife team. The intricate patterns made from woodblock printing and beautiful papers will captivate you. 

Kyoto

To Escape

Osaka – Osaka is the second largest city in Japan, after Tokyo, and to me it felt like the Japanese equivalent to Manchester or Liverpool, with lots of young people and a cool vibe. The food scene is thriving and we ate extremely well in our few days here. Try buckwheat soba noodles at Ayamedo, sweets from the Japanese confectioner Mochisho Shizuku, Kansai-style tempura at the 2-Michelin starred Yotaro Honten, and coffee at Moto Coffee. The Horie neighbourhood & Orange Street are lovely to wander around and explore, especially during the week when everyone is at work. I loved the variety of beautifully designed shops: Evam Eva for tailored clothing, Yumiko Iihoshi for stylish porcelain Ajikitcho, and Winged Wheel for appealing paper and envelopes of every colour. Hostel 64 is a reasonably priced, super hip hostel.

Hiroshima – This chilling city has a tumultous and heart-breaking history. While in town there are lots of war memorials to visit including the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the Children’s Peace Monument and Aioi Bridge. When it comes to meal times it is essential to try the famous Okonomiyaki dish at Mitchan Sohonten, and for a superior cup of coffee visit Obscura Coffee Roasters. If you have time take a day trip to the ethereal Miyajima Island to see the Itsukushima Shrine & O-torii gate.

Secrets of Sweden

I have visited every Nordic capital city and have found each destination completely enchanting. Most recently I flew to Stockholm for the second time to discover more of Sweden, a beautiful country with exceptional cuisine, unique local designers and beguiling wilderness. I wanted to share a few of my favourite secrets of this city with you…

gastrologik

Food

Swedish cuisine is becoming more and more popular internationally; I’ve spotted several fika and pickling restaurants popping up in London recently. Though these imitations are often delicious, the most authentic dishes are still found in Sweden. On the 24th June, Swedes celebrate Midsummer Day with a feast including, of course, the famous traditional dish of pickled herring and potatoes, a dish I tried in a few restaurants. For an extra special occasion I recommend heading to Gastrologik for an imaginative meal made from the finest local and seasonal ingredients. This pioneering restaurant was opened in 2011 by the talented chefs, Jacob Holmstrom and Anton Bjuhr. In their kitchen they aim to make the most of Nordic ingredients by presenting food that is both stunning and delicious.

Ett Hem, Stockholm

Hotel

Ett Hem is a different kind of hotel, in fact it is the most beautiful home you could ever wish to step foot in. This fairytale, boutique hotel has flourished under the interior expertise of Ilse Crawford. Indulgently luxurious but with plenty of character and charm, Ett Hem ensures guests feel totally at ease and relaxed wherever they are, whatever they are doing. With just 12 rooms you will always feel special staying at Ett Hem. Enjoy the perfectly designed bedrooms, or the communal downstairs spaces where guests are invited to eat freshly baked cake in the kitchen, peruse the books in the library or borrow a bike from the courtyard.

Stutterheim, Stockholm

Design

The ‘Scandi-look’ is much admired by hip Londoners and the streets of Stockholm are filled with blonde beauties modelling minimalist style with graceful ease. There are plenty of Swedish highstreet designers to spend your pocket money on, COS is the shop that immediately comes to mind. Head to the edgier districts like Sodermalm, to discover brands like Stutterheim, who make classic raincoats in a range of colours. Be bold and pick a ‘dusty pink’ or ‘Stockholm yellow’, or simply stick to the Scandi uniform of black or charcoal. Striking and trendy, they will make you crave the wet weather like never before.

Once you are satisfied that you have covered the city, head out to the lesser-known areas of Sweden to discover the original hipsters who are quietly creating amazing things that you will be thrilled to discover.

Learn more about hipster Sweden here.

See more on Swedish food here:

Suiran Hotel, Kyoto

Kyoto is the historic capital of Japan and is certainly the most popular city for tourists seeking out the country’s cultural and traditional highlights. I chose to stay on the outskirts of town in the beautiful town of Arashiyama. Just a 20-minute train from the city centre, the new Suiran hotel is ideally located for sightseeing, and is surrounded by significant temples and gardens.

Arashiyama was once the destination for the emperor’s summer holidays, an idyllic retreat by the emerald green Hozu River. The land now occupied by The Suiran once belonged to Tenryu-ji Temple, a UNESCO world heritage site, which guests can visit nearby. 115 years ago a rich businessman bought the land from the temple and built his summerhouse here, much of which has been retained.

Suiran opened in March 2015, the first luxury accommodation in the area. The boutique hotel has 39 rooms, ranging in size and price. The authentic Japanese-style design is evident throughout the bedrooms and communal spaces, with thoughtful modern details and additions. The open plan rooms are spacious and uncluttered, with large windows that let in plenty of light and display the stunning surrounding nature. In Spring and Autumn this is a particular bonus as guests can enjoy the pink cherry blossom and red Autumn leaves.

Book one of the 17 deluxe rooms which include a wooden outdoor open-air bath, filled with naturally healing onsen spa water. For special occasions the four suites are a grand example of the finest Japanese artistry and materials. With traditional tearooms and peaceful Japanese gardens to enjoy. I immediately noticed the thoughtful décor in our room – a carpet designed to look like the reflection of the moon in water and radiant blue sinks by local Shingaraki pottery. On the bed, patterned Japanese dressing gowns were ready to wear.

Two existing historic buildings, Enmei-kaku and Hasshoken, have been transformed into the hotel restaurant and cafe, and they feel particularly atmospheric. At Cafe Hassei guests can enjoy the Suiran signature Japanese afternoon tea while looking enjoying the scenic views. The restaurant is a sophisticated dining room, used for breakfast and dinner. Each morning we devoured a feast of Japanese and European breakfast dishes: from eggs benedict and pastries to Japanese salad and soup. Fresh smoothies are made each day from seasonal fruits.

At dinner we tried Kaiseki; a traditional multi-course Kyoto meal. This formal style of dining is offered in Michelin star establishments all over the city, but Suiran’s offering is just as elaborate and exciting. Ten tiny dishes arrived in quick succession: marinated seafood, unusual vegetables, and the finest quality meat. Cups of tea accompanied the courses, and subtly complemented the delicate flavours.

The Suiran is a beautiful and relaxing place to stay in Kyoto. Removed from the buzz of the main city centre, an experience here will feel more authentic and immersive.

More information and book a stay at Suiran Hotel here.