I have always dreamt of visiting San Francisco… and when I did finally get the chance last month it excited but disappointed me simultaneously. The huge metropolis is difficult and frustrating to navigate as a traveller, and many areas are gritty and unkept. As the start up and tech capital of the world; I expected the home of Google, Apple and Uber to be more stylish. However the food scene exceeded all my expectations, delicious and affordable eateries on every corner – there weren’t enough meals in the day to try it all. In between meal times there are some great shops, sights and attractions, if you know where to look.
To Stay
San Remo Hotel – San Francisco is an extremely expensive city to stay in so we were lucky to discover the affordable and characterful San Remo Hotel in the North Beach district of town. This historic hotel is small but welcoming, decorated in a quirky style, with thoughtful details everywhere you look.
To Eat
State Bird Provisions – There is no sign to alert you of this restaurant’s whereabouts, but the constant queue outside is a clue. This modern Michelin-starred venue offers a menu of small plates of rustic American fare, but most come for the dim sum style “provisions”. My highlights included the speciality CA state bird and the pork belly pluot salad.
La Taqueria – This Mexican institution has been awarded the best burrito in America. There are only a few options of tacos and burritos so the queue moves fast as the delicious food is freshly prepared at staggering speed. I tried the flavoursome and tender super pork burrito, washed down with an ice-cold corona.
Rich Table – Don’t miss this informal foodie destination. Set up by chef couple, Evan and Sarah Rich the daily changing menu is always filled with tasty, innovative dishes. The porcini doughnuts with raclette has become a favourite and is always on the menu, a salty cheesy delight. I also enjoyed an expertly mixed ‘Newton’s Law’ Bourbon cocktail and a bowl of wonderfully comforting homemade spaghetti with braised duck, tomato gravy and candied almonds.
Spruce – This smart Michelin starred restaurant is usually unaffordable but on Sundays they offer a reasonable brunch menu. The Spruce burger is absolutely delicious or if you want something more breakfast based opt for the Challah French Toast with apricot jam, almond butter and warm maple syrup. For a naughty addition try the addictively light Beignets with crème anglaise.
To Snack
Mr Holmes Bakehouse – Recognisable on social media from its neon ‘I got baked in San Francisco’ sign, this trendy bakery sells a small selection of fine cookies, cakes and savoury baked delicacies.
Smitten – When it gets hot in San Francisco there is one place the locals flock to get their ice-cream fix. Smitten started as a street wagon and now has numerous locations around the city. The made-to-offer nitrogen ice-cream is blissfully silky and creamy and the flavours are vibrant and rich. My favourite was the TCHO 60.5% chocolate.
Craftsmen and Wolves – A contemporary patisserie in the hip Mission district run by chef William Werner. After staring at the awe-inspiring baked creations in the glass cabinets, I eventually decided on a smoked cheddar, hot pepper gougère, a light cheesy puff with a kick of peppery spice.
To Drink
Sightglass Coffee – There are now three locations though I recommend visiting the flagship café in SoMA. The chic industrial space also houses their roastery and the coffee is smooth and delicious.
Four Barrel Coffee – Well known in San Francisco for their drip coffee, at Four Barrel they source, roast and brew beans ensuring top quality and taste. They don’t offer free wifi or power so guests are forced to relax and concentrate on enjoying the superior cup of coffee in their hand.
Saint Frank – Before visiting this neighbourhood coffee shop I had noticed their brand of beans in a number of other cafes. On a Saturday morning the minimalist venue was jam-packed with fitness fanatics and dog-walkers getting their morning fix. The coffee here is delicious and the croissants were flaky and buttery.
ABV – This walk-in bar in the Mission district serves top cocktails and award-winning food. Sit at the bar and chat to one of the expert mixologists about your preferred spirit or choose from the detailed menu of exciting concoctions.
Trou Normand – A swish bar in the centre of town with craft cocktails and an impressive range of charcuterie. The perfect Friday night spot for a date or to catch up with friends. Behind the bar a giant nude by Ebecho Muslimova adds a striking creative allure.
To Do
Alcatraz – I loved experiencing Alcatraz, a mesmerising piece of American history. Just 10 minutes from the San Francisco port this once maximum security federal penitentiary closed in 1963 and housed many famous criminals including Al Capone. The 45-minute audio tour is a must, detailing the lives of the inmates and officers while walking you round the eerie prison building. Book well ahead, preferably for the first ferry of the day to avoid the crowds. You can also see the retro ‘View Alcatraz’ sign at Pier 41.
Pier 39 – weave your way through the tourist crowds to Pier 39 where a group of seals sunbathe. Watch them as they swim, fight and play with each other, just a few metres out to sea.
Bay City Bike Rentals – rent a tandem from one of their four accessible locations and ride over the Golden Gate Bridge to Battery Spencer for unrivalled views of the towering red bridge.
Exploratorium – a playful learning laboratory for kids and adults alike, their mission is to change the way the world learns. This interactive museum has an unrivalled range and variety of hands-on experiments and experiences. Entry is free with the San Francisco CityPASS.
Pop Physique – If you’ve got a burst of energy whilst visiting San Fran, push yourself with a high intensity Pop Physique class. The artistic approach to exercise was launched in 2008 in LA by ex-ballet dancer Jennifer Williams. There are now 15 locations in America several of which are found in SF. We visited the Russian Hill studio for a fun but challenging hour long work-out.
To Shop
March – A beautiful store of aesthetic high-quality homeware for the kitchen and pantry and a range of vital cooking ingredients. They also host family style supperclubs.
Levi’s Store – This mega brand was started in San Francisco in 1873. The new Market Street flagship store features their more exclusive lines, including Made & Crafted and Levi’s Vintage. You can also have your favourite jeans or garment personalised with the in house tailor.
City Lights Bookstore – Open since 1953 this iconic independent bookshop made a name for itself publishing the nation’s most daring literature. It is most famous for its large collection of Beat poetry and prose. As many before me have, I purchased a copy of Jack Kerouac’s ‘On the Road’, a very suitable travelling companion.
To Escape
Oakland – This area used to be a dangerous suburb of San Francisco, but is now celebrated as a popular destination with a burgeoning scene of restaurants and creative outlets. Visit Kronnerburger for one of their amazing burgers or enjoy a bowl of warming noodles at Ramen Shop. Coffee lovers will want to visit the first official Blue Bottle Coffee here. For book browsing head to Book/Shop a lovely store that opened in 2013 dedicated to all things literary.
The city is best explored with a CityPASS which offers over 40 % off top attractions plus a 7-day Muni & Cable Car Pass.
Many thanks to the San Francisco Tourist Board for their help with this trip.
