Tag Archives: Islington

The House of Wolf, Islington

Posted on by

The House of Wolf is no ordinary bar, restaurant or venue. It is a bizarrely brilliant mix of all three, an ever-evolving establishment which plays host to a whole range of strange and fabulous events and meetings, demonstrations and masterclasses.

Located on the characterful Upper Street in Islington, this multi-functional, multi-sensory pleasure palace is nestled in between a collection of varied independent eateries and cafes. Though I was initially intent on trying the infamous experimental Apothecary cocktails, I found myself seated upstairs in the dining den, napkin on lap and ready to address the five course tasting menu the chef had “already begun preparing” for me.

House of Wolf features the UK’s first ever permanent series of monthly pop-up chef residencies, showcasing some of the UK’s most exciting chefs and culinary artists, each with an individual style. The impressive roll call of chefs will submerge patrons from the moment they sit and ensure a unique and memorable experience on each visit.The current David Ahern is offering a 5 course tasting menu.

It was a wildly inventive and innovative menu, as expected, a little rough around the edges, but a truly magical array of ideas, most of which were executed to perfection. After some disappointingly stale bread, a story of flavours began emerging from the kitchen, beautifully presented and delectably arranged. Baby Violet Artichoke, Sous Vide Quail breast, Warm sweet-cured Salmon, Rump of Lamb and Rhubarb and Custard Crumble were our treats for the night.

My firm favourites were the immaculately cooked quail, seasoned carefully with Jerez Vinegar Sauce, and the crumble which was unusually but successfully paired with gingerbread, ginger wine jelly and crystallised ginger syrup. I don’t even like ginger, but I loved this.

The cocktails are renowned here, if you can’t get a spot at the Apothecary (I will definitely be returning to try this bar), I’d opt for the fresh and sweet Snee Quay, a rum based drink flavoured with pineapple, lime and lemon or the house speciality, Hot Grog, a blissfully hot, comforting drink.

The House of Wolf is full of wonderful surprises, I cannot wait to return.

More information here.

http://houseofwolf.co.uk/

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Ballo, King’s Head Theatre

Posted on by

I must say I was hugely excited to receive the invitation to review again at the King’s Head, it being one of my favourite places to come and see what’s on offer.  This evening certainly did not disappoint. I was sceptical at the thought of an opera of Verdian proportions being done justice by the intimate settings of the King’s Head but with the stage being set wisely in thrust mode, the action managed to overcome the spatial limitations of its platform.

Now, if you have seen any of the publicity for this production, you will realise that it bears resemblance to a certain Swedish super-power home store.  Indeed, ‘Ballo’ is the famous Ikea’s retail rival in this version.  That is not to trivialise or undermine the storyline in any way; as all the drama, backbiting and tragedy that one would expect from Verdi is still very much present, just against a more humorous, light-hearted backdrop – kudos to Adam Spreadbury-Maher for striking this fine balance.  A healthy dose of Abba in the second act may have offended the sensibilities of some purists but an open mind will put paid to any such reactions – it certainly had the audience’s hips shaking and bottoms wiggling!

The roles have been double-cast; I was fortunate to catch the tragic lovers Riccardo and Amelia being portrayed by Edward Hughes and Becca Marriott respectively.  Hughes commanded the challenging score magnificently; sustaining repeated high B flats with impressive stamina and resonance.  Marriot’s athletic arias were performed with panache and intelligence, and the two had a lovely chemistry.  The casting surprise of the evening was the trouser role (Oscar) being sung by male coloratura soprano Martin Milnes.  This added great comedy and spark to the show, and if one had closed their eyes they never would have known the difference!  The greatest comic injection, however, came from Olivia Barry’s portrayal of the fortune-teller Ulrica.  She had the audience in stitches with her witty interpretation, and delivered the epic role with great control and a rich, velvety mezzo.

As ever, a theatre of this size limits the scope for orchestral accompaniment.  However, the lightning fingers of Ben Woodward more than compensated for this – he handled this tour de force of a score with great dexterity – top marks.

Ballo runs until 25 May – book tickets here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, Mark McCloskey.

Brunch at Naamyaa, Angel

Posted on by

Naamyaa is the first Bangkok cafe in London… an authentic representation of the eateries that feed so much of the Thai population. Well travelled fans of Thailand may be surprised by the split menu which includes some Western familiars as well as the more exotic Eastern favourites. These cafes are most often hidden away in the shopping areas of Thai cities providing sustenance for the hungry locals visiting the blissfully air conditioned centre to shop and eat.

The London restaurant, which comes from Busaba guru Alan Yau, is named after the signature dish on the menu. Naamyaa is a classic Bangkok Breakfast of warm Kanom Jin Noodle served with a plate of pickled morning glory, star fruit, free range soft boiled egg, Thai herb & clear soup. Delicious, comforting and easily personalised according to individual preference.

Occupying a huge space near Angel tube station, the venue could easily be bare and uninteresting but, thanks to the eclectic decor and design, manages to exude character. The central kitchen is very involving and the amazing golden ladies (each and every one is blessed by monks) add some glitz and glamour to the main room.

Naamyaa is now offering a plethora of unique brunch choices, both Eastern and Western inspired. If you want something more familiar try the wonderfully textured corn fritter with crispy bacon, rocket and aioli. If you’re feeling more daring (which I would definitely urge) opt for a more authentic Bangkok dish. We tried the following:

Khao dtom: Thai rice porridge with pork, soft boiled egg, Asian celery, ginger & pork broth.

Changmama’s pan-fried turnip cake with Chinese chive & beansprouts

Rice cake salad with cucumber, ginger, mint & peanut with sweet Thai sauce

Naamyaa with green chicken curry

Morning glory with yellow bean, Thai garlic & red chilli

Satay gai: chicken satay with peanut sauce

Jasmine tea smoked baby back pork ribs

I expected to dislike some of the more curious sounding dishes, but found these to be my favourites. Thai rice porridge with pork is wonderfully warming and light with tender meat. Turnip cake is strangely addictive, soft sweet cubes in a lovely dressing. If you like ribs you will love the Naamyaa jasmine smoked variety, they are melt-in-the-mouth exquisite with a hint of exotic jasmine and a sticky coating.

We experienced a range of the drinks on offer… the freshly infused lemongrass tea with honey was my favourite, a soothing blend ideal for sore throats. Jasmine mango is pretty amazing too, a much thicker fruity drink. There are seven breakfast smoothie options… my guest loved the Maca Peach which uses the ancient Peruvian herb, a superfood for rejuvenating energy levels mixed with white peach, milk and banana, I wasn’t a massive fan.

I was relieved to see an absence of jelly rice type Thai desserts, instead we ordered two subtle ice-cream based dishes. I can particularly recommend the Mascarpone ice-cream with strawberry coulis and Thai basil: refreshing, sweet with extra tasty grated young coconut, it would complement any meal.

Naamyaa got our seal of approval all round. Great for brunch, lunch, breakfast or dinner.

For an Eastern twist on the typically Western tradition of brunch, head to Alan Yau’s Bangkok-inspired cafe.

407 St John St., EC1V 4AB‎; 020 3122 0988

More information here: www.naamyaa.com