Portugal is having a moment this year as Brits abandon Spain and Italy for the cheaper, more authentic Portuguese cities. Porto is a charming place to visit for a long weekend with beautiful buildings, tasty food (both casual and smart) and quirky shops, galleries and cafes. The old town is characterised by steep hills and crumbling old townhouses, and down by the riverside you can taste a multitude of Port wine or refresh with an artisan ice-cream.
To Stay
Rosa et Al Townhouse – Rosa et Al is a beautifully restored townhouse in an artistic area of town. The minimalist and luxurious bedrooms are a sanctuary after a busy day in town and the common areas are stylish and hip, decorated with antique furniture and vintage finds. My favourite room was the Queen Heritage Townhouse Suite on the first floor, which has a lovely original ceiling and lots of natural light. Brunch is particularly good at Rosa et Al, go for the fresh warm scones with homemade fruit compotes.
To Eat & Drink
Euskalduna Studio – If you book one restaurant in Porto it should be Euskalduna Studio. Chef Vasco Coelho opened Euskalduna (which translates to ‘Basque’) 6 months ago, a new creative restaurant to showcase ideas and skills he has honed in some of Europe’s very best restaurants. It is a small intimate restaurant that offers a brilliant 10-course tasting menu and wine/beer/tea pairings. Every course was truly spectacular both in taste and design.
Esquina do Avesso – This casual little restaurant is tucked away behind the beach. Unusually it is open on Sundays (when many other eateries in town are shut) and the menu is tasty and unfussy. Our favourite dish was the tiger prawns coated in crispy angel hair pastry.
Gazela – This iconic and unassuming snack bar in the historic centre is a favourite lunch stop with locals. Go for the moreish hotdog; a simple combination of baguette, fresh sausage spicy patê, linguiça (a kind of thin chouriço) and cheese.
Casa Guedes – Quite simply the best sandwich in Porto. A huge chunk of pork knuckle is carved fresh and served in a crusty bread bap. Absolutely delicious and very cheap, but arrive early as there is always a queue.
Casa De Cha Da boa Nova – For fine dining with a view you can’t do better than Casa De Cha Da boa Nova. This two Michelin star establishment has a prime location on the water’s edge in Leça da Palmeira in Matosinhos. The menu focuses on local fish and seafood presented with precision and flair. In my opinion the food is a little overpriced but for a special occasion it fits the bill.
Mesa 325 – An enthusiasm for speciality coffee has not yet hit Porto, but Mesa 325 is an exception to the rule offering great craft coffee in a lovely welcoming cafe.
To Shop
La Paz – Hidden away in the backstreets of the Porto old town, La Paz is a slick and stylish shop selling beautifully tailored menswear by owner André Bastos Teixeira. The brightly coloured shirts are a wonderful addition to any summer wardrobe.
O! Galeria – This arty shop / gallery exhibits and sells the work of young up and coming artists. The prints are affordable and unique, the perfect present to take home with you.
Livraria Lello – A magical and historic bookshop is one of the main tourist sites in Porto after it was discovered that J.K Rowling was inspired by Livraria for the Harry Potter world. The wonderful red staircase has been kept in beautiful condition despite the hoards of tourists that visit every day.
To Do
Torre dos Clerigos – The Torre dos Clérigos is one of the most iconic buildings in the city. This amazing Baroque church is lovely to climb to see the views down below.
Taylor’s – There are plenty of good places to choose from for Port tasting in Porto. We opted for Taylor’s which was recommended by a few foodies as a particularly good maker and also has a lovely garden to sit in with a cold glass of authentic port.
Bolhão Market – A historic food market housed in a Neoclassical building on two levels. A lovely place to wander round and watch the activity as locals sell fruit, vegetables and other foodie treats.
Piscina das Mares – These ethereal tidal rock pools (off the beach of Leça da Palmeira) are only open in the summer months, the perfect turquoise relief on a hot summer’s day.
To See
Sao Bento Train Station – This epic 19th century train station is always full of tourists ogling at the fantastic blue and white tiled walls. Don’t miss walking through whilst visiting the city.
Palácio da Bolsa – If you need a break from the heat and hills, this historic palace is the ideal refuge. The 19th Neoclassical building honours Porto’s past and present money merchants and has many miraculous rooms to marvel at. You can only see the palace with a guided tour.