THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: La Tagliata, Spitalfields

There is something uniquely comforting about good, honest Italian cooking. Cliches are cliches for a reason, and so it goes with the traditions of Italian cuisine – bowls of flavour, boards of unassuming simplicity, two or three ingredients getting along joyfully on the plate.

La Tagliata

La Tagliata (nestled in the backstreets of Spitalfields) chimes with a lot of what’s good about cooking from across Italy: quality produce treated properly, a family-inspired menu, and a decent wine list to accompany. Starting with the antipasti for two, our table became a whistle stop tour of the Italian mainland – spicy Roman sausage sat alongside Lombardy bresaola and Sicilian salami. The accompanying focaccia did what focaccia does, namely soak up olive oil (this one a fruity Gustaldo variety from Puglia).

La Tagliata

Tagliatelle with prawns and courgettes was light and well-seasoned, the shellfish sauce adding depth, and “La Sublime”, rare steak thinly sliced and served with truffle salt, rosemary, and balsamic was very close if not right on the money name-wise. A warm chocolate cake made every effort to upstage its predecessors, but didn’t quite do enough. The Maldrino Montepulciano went down a storm, however.

The spaces in La Tagliata itself is refined, relaxed and airy – no mean feat considering the tight footprint it occupies. With the menu drawing on childhood memories from the team of Italian chef/owners, La Tagliata is perfect for those who want their trattoria experience a little grownup, but still with the same comfort flavours.

More information and book a table at La Tagliata here.

Written by James Bomford.

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