Skye Gyngell is known for her Michelin success at the leafy oasis of Petersham Nurseries, but she has left suburbia for the thrill of the city, opening her first solo venture, Spring this year. The 100 cover eatery occupies a lovely 19th century drawing room in Somerset House, which has been closed to the public for the last 150 years, while occupied by the Inland Revenue.
The restaurant focusses on ingredient led cooking, and though the location has changed, Skye’s menu is still inspired by nature and gardens. Many of the products, including breads and cheeses are made onsite. The grand historic dining room has been beautifully restored to match the light seasonal cooking with carefully designed textured walls, pastel shades and fresh delicate lighting.
After enjoying the homemade wholegrain bread and thick whipped butter we turned our attention to the menu. The recipes have an obvious Mediterranean influence, especially my favourite starter, the delicious and vibrantly flavoured Pappardelle with nduja, rocket and mascarpone. The homemade pasta was cooked al dente, just as I like it, with a thick creamy sauce with a spicy kick from the soft Italian meat and a peppery hint from the tendrils of rocket.
The main courses are eye-wateringly expensive (between 24 and 35 pounds) but the large portion sizes partially make up for the price tag. Braised shin of veal with preserved lemons, black olives, polenta and gremolata is a well-balanced dish. The veal was wonderfully soft, falling apart, presented on a bed of creamy polenta and accented with sharp citrus. The leg of lamb is a meatier dish, served with cavolo nero, borlotti beans and cumin salsa verde. This dish was rustic and colourful, a full-bodied flavoursome cut of meat. I felt the presentation here was a little clumsy, the dish would have looked more refined with less beans and more precision with the vegetable arrangement. We skipped pudding, though a sneaky peek at the adjacent table convinced me that the warm chocolate cake with caramel ice cream would be a good bet for next time.
Skye’s culinary talents complement the artistic nature of Somerset House. Spend a sophisticated day visiting the outstanding Courtauld Collection or the Egon Schiele exhibition and treat yourself with a delicious lunch at Spring.
More information here: springrestaurant.co.uk