The big bustling brasserie Balthazar has received mixed reviews since its opening a few months ago. It is a hit in New York so naturally everyone assumed it would be equally brilliant and popular here. It is certainly popular and when I went along for a lunchtime meeting I was astounded by the noise levels and general excitement. With so much hype to boost bookings, does the food even need to impress?
Balthazar New York serves traditional bistro fare from breakfast through late-night supper. The New York restaurant was opened by Keith McNally in the spring of 1997, offering a French menu prepared by chef de cuisine Shane McBride. Diners can also choose from an extensive wine list, a raw seafood bar, and breads and pastries from Balthazar bakery. The venue became renowned for its exceptional design, converted from a leather wholesaler’s warehouse to a spacious restaurant that can accommodate over 200 people in the dining room and at the zinc bar.
The London branch is similar in many ways. Housed in the old Theatre Museum, in a building called “The Flower Cellars”, Balthazar shares space with The London Film Museum. The restaurant is open for every meal and food is available all day long. The menu includes an abundance of fruits de mer as well as a wide selection of classical French brasserie and bistro dishes. The Balthazar Boulangerie is housed next door serving its own house-made artisan breads, as well as a wide selection of homemade pastries, salads and sandwiches to take away throughout the day.
All the usual classics that you would expect in a Parisian brasserie are available, we tasted the club sandwich and burger and a summery salad. The service was surprisingly efficient, considering the volume of guests present. Food was fresh and good but nothing special – of our selection the chicken club sandwich was the winner, tender and smoky chicken accompanied with avocado, bacon, salad and served with extra fine and extra tasty pomme frites.
Balthazar are succeeding in drawing in plenty of customers but I can’t help feeling that somewhere along the way they have lost the essence of France.
More information and book here.