Tag Archives: wine

WY Brussels

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Considering Belgium is a very small country, it has a very long list of Michelin starred restaurants. In Brussels I was lucky enough to get the chance to experience a very special eatery, concealed within Mercedes House, the posh car showroom. The unlikely location and layout of this venue makes the inventive food and inspired wine choices all the more surprising and exciting.

WY Brussels is the newest project from star chef Bart De Pooter. The showroom is situated at the Sablon in the heart of Brussels, surrounded by top chocolatiers. The Mercedes brand is sleek and elegant and this eatery evokes that classic style. The room is designed by Belgian designer Franky Claeys; the simple modern décor has a red and black theme that makes the dining room feel masculine but glamorous, matching the refined virtuosic cuisine of De Pooter.

The kitchen focusses on dishes that use regional and ecologically sourced produce, the plates created are vibrant and original. For guests who enjoy the drama of the kitchen there are cameras installed so you can watch the show from the comfort of your table. The atmosphere is relaxed and we found the staff to be incredibly friendly and thoughtful.

We were treated to some of the WY specialities. Following a glass of exceptionally fizzy Bollinger, we received some delicious miniature mouthfuls: savoury onion and date canele cakes, and rosemary coquettes. Next came a shot of smooth and sweet pumpkin soup with quinoa seeds and freshly baked bread.

The first course was spectacular, Bacon and slow cooked cabbage. The green and pink ingredients were assembled attractively across the plate, a brilliantly modest but very tasty dish. The thick bacon was salty and sweet paired with charred cabbage, fresh greenery and kale crisps. Our waiter brought us glasses of Chardonnay from North Italy, a fresh wine with a buttery rounded taste.

After a short break a glass container was brought grandly to the table – the waitress, with a cheeky smile, lifted the lid to allow a puff of rosemary smoke to escape. The finished dish soon arrived, Rosemary smoked duck liver with béarnaise sauce and parsnip presented in three ways. The mixture of flavours may sound strange, but the smooth luxurious liver with the sweet fresh parsnip and creamy sauce actually worked surprisingly well. The smokiness miraculously infused the food, an unusual and strong flavour. I found the course size a little overwhelming, but my companion certainly didn’t complain as he scraped up the final drop of sauce.

We had spotted a few steaks passing us by, and we hoped we were next in line for a hunk of appetising meat. A little while later we were presented with plates of Tenderloin steak with aubergine and goat’s cheese. The steak was a smooth but thick cut of meat, a breed called Holstein from Northern Holland, it is one of the oldest breeds in Europe. Again the inventive pairing surprised and delighted us. I was pleased to have a vegetable accompaniment to the opulent meat. The aubergine had an almost nutty flavour, contrasted with the cheese sauce.

Dessert was thankfully light: a complex construction of pineapple, coconut, caramel and pina colada. The dish had been carefully balanced with the sweetness, tangy fruitiness and a touch of spice with a crystallised jalapeno pepper. We were full but not too full for a warm mini madeleine, the best way to end a meal.

A hidden treasure in the heart of Brussels, WY is for foodies who appreciate a dining experience that is a little unconventional.

More information and book a table here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with Eurostar.

·         Eurostar operates up to 9 daily services from London St Pancras International to Brussels with return fares from £69.

·         Tickets to any Belgium station start from £79.

·         Fastest London-Brussels journey time is 2 hours.

·         Tickets are available from eurostar.com or 03432 186 186.

Le Relais des Moines, Provence

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I have never had much need to visit restaurants in Provence. The fresh market produce and my family’s culinary enthusiasm mean a great meal is never far away. However on my last trip to the South of France I did a bit of exploring, keen to discover what Michelin star eateries offer in this part of the world.

Le Relais des Moines ticked a lot of boxes: close to home, good value lunch menu and very appealing sounding dishes. Head chef Sebastien Sanjou cooks passionately but meticulously with the vibrant flavours of Provence, preparing thoughtful dishes that are clever yet uncomplicated. This simplicity emphasises the quality of the ingredients used.

Located on the route to St Roseline in a quiet corner of the Var countryside, the restaurant is set in a beautiful preserved 16th century stone house overlooking the lush Cote D’Azur, illuminated by the southern sunshine. We sat at a calm table near the window, so we could admire the views while enjoying our food and drinking wine from nearby vineyards.

The lunch menu costs 39 euros a head and includes three courses, two glasses of wine and half a bottle of water, coffee and petit fours, and numerous little extra amuse-bouches throughout. Immediately unusual and delicious tiny tasters arrived to perk up our palates… cauliflower jelly, crispy bread-crumbed beef, and a glass vessel of mushroom soup. For starter we loved the small but rich bowl of chestnut veloute, lightly grilled foie gras, crunchy croutons, slivers of bacon and green cabbage. Despite the rich ingredients, the dish was delicate, thanks to the airy recipe and careful seasoning.

The main course was bold and brilliant, and I couldn’t believe our luck, as it was the only option on the set lunch menu – fine lean pieces of gorgeous beef dressed with braised mushroom and a foam with an intriguing woody flavour. The meat, though very pink for me, was so tender and tasty that I didn’t notice its rareness. The jus had clearly been given all the chef’s attention and had a real depth of flavour. After the waitress drizzled a little over our plates I asked her sweetly if she could leave the little jug of steaming sauce on the table, needless to say when she came to pick up the empty plates the jug was also empty.

Dessert was a more extravagant version of my favourite breakfast recipe. Pain Perdu (similar to French toast) with pear sorbet, caramel, sugary nuts and nougatine was a delight of different textures and flavours: soft warm cooked bread surrounded by a pool of sticky caramel sauce and topped with cooling fruity sorbet and vanilla bean silky cream. I scraped up every last bit with barely a breath between mouthfuls. If you are going for the more luxurious a la carte menu, I’ve heard the mandarin dessert is unmissable.

Hidden away in the hills of Provence this restaurant showcases the flavours and captures the atmosphere of the area perfectly. I can’t think of anywhere in London where a Michelin starred lunch offers such masterful food, special wine and value for your money.

More information and book a table here.

Albertine winebar, Shepherd’s Bush

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After a tiring day trawling the shops of Westfield I always crave a chilled glass of white wine. Despite living in the Shepherd’s Bush area for years I have only recently discovered the delightful Albertine wine bar.

Slightly removed from the main grubby Shepherd’s Bush strip, Albertine has a charming old-fashioned feel with tired but characterful wooden furniture, a blackboard with special suggestions, dimmed lighting and clouded windows. The vibe is very different to anywhere else in this loud and busy area of London. I felt like I was hanging out in a little tavern frequented by the Hogwarts students and magicians.

Albertine is definitely not a newbie, and has been satisfying West London customers for decades. A huge range of bottles are picked for their individual and unique qualities. The global list features over 130 wines with something to suit every requirement and taste. The prices are reasonable too, for less than £30 you can enjoy a fine bottle with a delectable cheese board and bread to accompany.

Wine bars are making an apparent revival in London at the moment, and Albertine is a great place to enjoy this growing trend.

Follow Albertine wine bar on Twitter here.