Evoluzione, Xenia Hotel, South Kensington

Located inside the Victorian restored building now home to Hotel Xenia, Evoluzione restaurant offers Italian food with a healthy twist. The light and airy conservatory is the ideal space for a restaurant, it is just a shame that the roaring main road is right outside. On a weekday evening the restaurant could have been quite cosy, but aside from one other table we were the only guests. The staff seemed eager to remain occupied happily rushing about to make sure we had everything we needed.

Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio heads up the team in the kitchen; on the restaurant floor professional nutritionist Dr. Chiara Manzi hovered ready to answer any dietary questions we had about the menu. In fact, we found we had none, the menu fully explains the concept and the methods of cooking used to achieve the ‘art joins nutrition’ idea.

“Cucina Evoluzione is a new food culture in which pleasure and wellbeing, art and science, creativity and technology harmonise to give an elixir of long life.” We have all seen the inspiring Olive Oil adverts associated with a healthy Italian way of life, but the restaurant concept seems new and exciting. I greedily wondered how much pasta I could eat here and still classify the meal as healthy!

Each dish is carefully described with the method of preparation and the precision used to create it. We tried Violet ravioli with stewed sea bass and dried tomatoes… the colour of the ravioli is provided by a special variety of potatoes which are rich in polyphenols which is heart-friendly and contributes to a long life. Low temperature cooked ostrich meat was lean and apparently contains iron and a kick of Omega-3. Every dish has a story to tell, but I must be honest it wasn’t as tasty as I hoped and it certainly isn’t as satisfying as a big bowl of Spaghetti carbonara.

It was the fresh and vibrantly flavoured starters that were our favourite: Aubergine millefeuille with buffalo mozzarella, caramelised onions, sun-dried tomato and basil was really delicious, perfectly cooked and wonderfully seasoned. The Mozzarella slices with courgette flowers, candied roasted cherry tomatoes, Batavian endive, red onion and peas in almond milk was good too and we were delighted to hear it was beneficial to the skin.

Desserts were interesting – an Evoluzione tiramisu tasted far too creamy to be healthy, and we had fun dissecting the fruit rubik cube! However at £11 each I don’t think they are really worth splashing out on.

I’m afraid to say that Evoluzione, although equipped with friendly staff and good intentions, is a case of a winning idea which just doesn’t translate into a great meal.

More information here.

Drakes, Ripley

Drakes is in Ripley near Woking, but please don’t let the location put you off… I would travel to and from Woking every day for food this good. The cuisine is amongst the best I’ve ever experienced and the restaurant is utterly charming.

On a Saturday lunchtime there were numerous menu options available, the set and tasting menus are named flavour discoveries and explore seasonal produce.

Steve Drake is an energetic enthusiast in the kitchen, keen to create food which is both healthy and innovative. When we visited, his latest toy was a clay oven used to immaculately cook the cauliflower in one of our courses.

The a la carte menu looked exemplary but I was pleased to find a special flavour journey had already been decided for us… this way I could skip the agonising choosing process and try a larger selection of small dishes, rather than the standard three courses. I would definitely recommend ordering this way, it is a more exciting and refreshing way of sampling what’s on offer. Drakes believe this way of eating offers: intrigue, adventure, flavour, simplicity and discovery.

Our Flavour Journey

Snacks

Quail, Rhubarb Gel, Foie Gras, Compressed Lettuce

Scallop, Clay Baked Cauliflower, Raisin Puree, Curry Oil

Monkfish, Pumpkin Yolk, Crisp Mussels, Alexanders

Slow Cooked Mutton Shoulder, Heirloom Carrots, Tarragon Oil

Parsnip Ice Cream, Blackberries, Sorrel Ice

Pear cooked in ‘Beurre Noisette’ Goat’s Milk, Hibiscus, Crystalised Vodka

Chocolate Breakfast

So as you can see there is far too much too talk about in this review… instead I will pay attention to the most vivid memories that remain with me a week after dining at Drakes. The ‘Snacks’ they refer to so bashfully in the menu were exquisite, and all in miniature: pork fritters with cider vinegar jam, quinoa crackers with dandelion puree, duck’s heart with chicken broth and red pepper brioche balls. It was a borrower’s meal in itself, fun and full of flavour.

My fish was kindly substituted with vegetarian ingredients, the staff delicately enquire at the start of the meal if any guests have specific dietary requirements. Of the itemised courses the quail, monkfish and pear really stood out for me.

The quail is cooked to perfection with a subtle caramelly sauce. It is elegantly presented with small slices of creamy foie gras and wonderful compressed lettuce. The monkfish is a dish of surprises, a beautiful piece of fish with a pumpkin sauce pretending to be a yolk (the encased pumpkin bubble is heated to 50 degrees so that only the middle melts). The sugary buttery pear is to die for, a typically French idea juxtaposed with peculiarly refreshing goat’s milk ice cream and shockingly fabulous tiny crystallised vodka pieces. The only course I was less wild about was the mutton which in comparison to the rest was a little bland.

The wine journey paralleling the food was a real highlight of the meal for us. Eight highly original and exciting choices were delivered just before each plate of food. The sommelier was not only precise and professional but showed huge, genuine enthusiasm and passion for wine. His approach was humorous throughout proffering anecdotes and stories about each bottle. His expert knowledge was obvious when he spoke of discovering unknown wines such as the South Australian First Drop ‘The Mother of all Harvests’ and Austria’s exquisite Weinland ‘Theodora’. For the first time ever I understood the wine while appreciating it. Drakes has a truly special sommelier who I’m sure would bring wonderfully unexpected wines to accompany any meal.

I truly am in awe of the Drakes team for creating such a spectacular restaurant and a miraculous, magical menu. I think the photos prove my point.

More information here.

www.drakesrestaurant.co.uk

Champneys, Forest Mere


Champneys is a haven of tranquillity and luxury and the Forest Mere branch provided the perfect sanctuary for my best friend and I on our weekend away from the city.

Located just an hour from busy London, this beautiful location provides instant relief for the mind, body and soul. On a sunny Friday morning the drive to Forest Mere filled us with excitement, the entrance stuns with a dazzling lake view and fresh green countryside all around you, it is refreshing and invigorating. We were welcomed and well looked after, exemplary service that continued throughout our stay.

We spent a heavenly 24 hours in the resort, enjoying nutritious delicious food, thoughtful and enjoyable classes and indulgent treatments. Meals are served in various dining areas, a selection of salads and healthy dishes are available, and in one corner a chef makes personalised specialities… we tried noodle stir fry and tortilla wraps. The food is good though fat and salt are obviously limited, I struggled a bit with the lack of salt on the table and felt very naughty specially requesting it!

All the facilities at Forest Mere are conveniently close and after our lunch we went straight to the changing room to try out the swimming pool. Aside from lengths, the huge sparkling blue pool is used for water exercise groups, a class we thoroughly enjoyed. Whilst moving to the music you are instructed to push through various routines and drills, good exercise but more importantly great fun! The Ballet core strength class and hula-hooping were equally enjoyable and hilarious at times; the teachers are all encouraging and motivating with a good sense of humour.

The treatment rooms provide ultimate seclusion and a blissful sense of calm. I was lucky enough to try the Bamboo massage and personalised facial. Both were performed with expertise by the therapists, the massage was energising while the facial pampered my skin and deep cleansed and moisturised leaving my complexion bright and awake.

After changing and refreshing in our attractive Premier Suite, we went down for supper. Three courses are offered with a surprising range of options. The food was exceptional – starving hungry from the day of exercise and relaxation we scoffed it down with great appreciation. The menu is designed to nurture the body providing you with essential nutrients whilst avoiding any unnecessary nasties! That night we slept like exhausted children in our giant plump bed.

I felt aware while relaxing that this is a health spa to improve your wellbeing rather than just a hotel for pampering and idleness. Champneys is a home away from home, comfortable and comforting but without pretentious and unnecessary extravagance. I would love to go back regularly, but even after just one visit I feel I have kickstarted a healthier routine.

Visit the Champneys website here for more information.

http://www.champneys.com/