Ikoyi, St James Market

Ikoyi is an unusual restaurant in a very usual place. Adventurous diners should head here if they are bored of the tacos, vegan burgers and baos that currently dominate the London restaurant scene. The small, smart eatery is found tucked away in the shiny St James complex, decorated with modern furniture, trendy lighting and colourful artwork.

Ikoyi

The service was slick and subtle throughout our lunch. The waiter offered advice when needed but didn’t bother us with unnecessary niceties, which I was grateful for. In such a busy business district it is important to be able to enjoy a speedy lunch and Ikoyi seem well rehearsed in this… there is a reasonably priced lunch menu which features three courses of speciality dishes.

IkoyiIkoyi

The restaurant name pays tribute to a wealthy district in the Nigerian town of Lagos, and the menu shows influence from West African cuisine. But this is not a casual affair, Ikoyi should definitely be considered fine dining, and the prices reflect this with main courses costing around £30 each.

We chose based on our waiter’s recommendations, and the initial snacks turned out to be two of our favourite dishes. Buttermilk Plantain & Smoked Scotch Bonnet is as delicious as it is appealing; bright maroon shards of sweet plantain are coated in a smoky salt and served with a creamy spicy dip. Seriously tasty and not too painfully spicy! Cow skin Sandwich was also wonderful, a light crispy bite filled with edible flowers.

IkoyiIkoyi

There are intriguing cocktails and wines to choose from, but we opted for the two non-alcoholic drinks. A refreshing Grape Zobo with Tannins, strawberry and long pepper and the more tropical Ikoyi Chapman, made with Hibiscus, guava and sour passionfruit.

Of the starters Mushroom Suya with malted barley and pine was an interesting dish, aromatic with an intense depth of earthy flavour – I couldn’t decide if I liked it or not. Chicken Gizzards with plantain and toast was less challenging than you might expect, the perfectly cooked offal was soft and tasty accompanied by the sweet plantain.

IkoyiIkoyi

The main courses were absolutely beautiful, presented on vibrant plates that showed off Chef Jeremy Chan’s flair and creativity. Chicken Efo & Asparagus was nice but not memorable, immaculately cooked poultry with an assortment of spicy sauces, and one lone asparagus stem. Although I usually don’t eat fish, I couldn’t resist trying the Fish Pepper Soup with squash and shiso as it just smelt so wonderful. It was perhaps the least daring dish of the meal, but for me it ticked every box; light and warming with a magical broth. If you like crab, do try the Smoked Crab Jollof Rice, which a few friends had recommended to me before my visit.

Ikoyi

The striking black and magenta dessert was perhaps the winning dish of the day. Served in a decadently dark bowl, this unusual recipe featured flavours of black benne (a type of sesame) and blackcurrant. The deep nutty sesame taste paired beautifully with the creamy sweet fruitiness of the blackcurrant… it was moreish and satifying, sweet and savoury with a touch of sourness. I can’t remember the last time I liked a dessert this much.

Those living and working in the St James’ area must be overjoyed at the recent rush of new exciting eateries. But while many are following obvious culinary trends, Ikoyi is offering something completely new, a chance to try flavours and ingredients not often represented in our foodie capital.

More information and book a table at Ikoyi here.

A week in Sri Lanka

Every time I visit an entirely new part of the world I try to visualise and compare the new destination to other places I have already experienced. After 8 days travelling round Sri Lanka, I came to the conclusion that this country is a more relaxed version of India, a less touristy option than Thailand, and is equally rich in culture as Vietnam and Cambodia. The food is flavoursome and unique, and the landscapes are truly unforgettable. For such a compact island this idyllic country has a lot to offer; tea plantations and temples in the Northern provinces, Safari adventures in the lush jungle or blissful beach breaks on the palm tree populated coast if you venture further South. It is a country of kind and generous people, proud to show off their beautiful country that feels like it is just at the beginning of its tourism boom.

Sri Lanka

Day One: Colombo

Most international flights will arrive into Colombo Airport, which is a 45-minute drive to Sri Lanka’s busy capital city. Many visitors bypass Colombo but I recommend spending 24 hours here observing local life, wandering round the colourful Pettah market and marvelling at the spectacular Red Mosque.

In the evening, take a sunset stroll along Galle Face Beach before enjoying a vibrant dinner at Shangri-La Hotel Colombo where some of the countries best restaurants are. We loved the seafood and hoppers at Kaema Sutra eatery.

STAY – Shangri-La Hotel Colombo

Sri Lanka

Day Two: Colombo to Sigiriya

We hired a driver for our week exploring the island, and it seemed to be a popular way to see as much as possible, both with private chauffeurs and for group bookings.

Wake up early and have a luxurious breakfast in the hotel before heading North East to the cultural triangle. We drove for two and a half hours to Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. It is an ideal halfway stopping point between Colombo and Sigiriya and a useful, if touristy, place to have lunch. The elephant orphanage costs Rs. 2500 each (£23 each) to enter and here you will see the elephants bathing in the river, feeding and walking through town. Try to arrive between 10am-12pm or 2-4pm when the large herd of elephants have their bathing time.

Following lunch, drive two hours to Dambulla Rock Temple. After a beautiful 20-minute climb, make friends with the cheeky monkeys and leave your shoes before venturing into the painted caves with beautiful buddha statues and old frescoes on the walls.

STAY: Jetwing Vil Uyana Hotel

Sri Lanka

Day Three: Sigiriya to Nuwara Eliya

Check out early after a quick traditional Sri Lankan breakfast and make the short 10-minute drive to Lions Rock in Sigiriya National Park. (The climb is tiring in the heat, so it’s best to get there as early as possible.) It took us around 1-1.5 hours (in total to go up and down) and entrance tickets cost £25 per person. You’ll see the remains of the ancient rock fortress and magnificent views of the surrounding countryside.

Stop for a relaxed lunch at Kandy House. This beautiful boutique hotel is just outside Kandy, an old Dutch colonial building with just 9 rooms and very attentive service. We enjoyed Thai-inspired curry, a grilled vegetable mezze and rice.

If you are feeling up to it in the heat, Kandy is a fun and energetic city to wander round. Here you can visit the sacred and important Temple of the Tooth, buy fruit from the market and stop for a decent coffee and doughnut at Buono.

Then it was time to make the long and winding drive up to Nuwara Eliya, through the endless tea plantations. If you are keen to learn more about the expansive tea trade in the area, visit Glenloch Tea Factory for a free tour and tasting (though tour guides will expect a small tip). We particularly liked the ‘Golden Flush’ tea at Glenloch.

STAY: Jetwing Warwick Gardens

Sri Lanka

Day Four: Nuwara Eliya to Ella

We had a leisurely morning, enjoying breakfast with a view at Warwick Gardens. I wouldn’t bother too much leaving time to visit Nuwara Eliya town, although there are a few interesting ‘British style’ buildings in the Little England area of town (for example the Grand Hotel).

Drive on to Nanu Oya train station (10 minutes from Nuwara Eliya) seeing more tea plantations on the way. Here you can get the scenic train ride from Nanu Oya to Ella. It takes approximately 3 hours, which is longer than driving but is an unforgettably beautiful journey. I recommend sitting in 2nd Class to have windows that open – you can’t move between carriages and will need to book your ticket in advance in peak months. For the best views sit on the right from Nanu Oya to Ohiya, then on the left from Ohiya to Haputale, then back on the right from Haputale to Ella.

From Ella station take a Tuk-Tuk to the Nine Arch Bridge, and if you are feeling energetic you can climb Little Adam’s Peak (1 hour total for up and down).

STAY: Jetwing Kaduruketha (35 mins from Ella)

Sri Lanka - Yala

Day Five: Ella to Yala

From Jetwing Kaduruketha it is a 2 hour drive to Yala National Park. In this jungle area of Sri Lanka you can see leopards, sloth bears, elephants and crocodiles among many other mammals and bird species.

We visited the newly opened Wild Coast Tented Lodge for lunch. This luxurious design hotel has a brilliant chef who cooks up some of the best food in the country. I loved the varied curry and rice dish, and freshly made cardamom ice-cream for dessert.

After lunch we took a very short transfer to Chena Huts hotel next door. This special property is very popular with honeymooners and is the ultimate way to experience Sri Lankan safari in style. (The hotel organise Safari tours twice a day: 6.30-10am and 3.30-7.30pm).

STAY: Chena Huts

Sri Lanka

Day Six: Yala to Unawatuna

After an exciting early morning Safari (spotting leopards and elephants) we enjoyed a final delicious morning meal at Chena Huts before driving 2 hours along the coast.

We stopped at Amanwella for lunch, one of the most prestigious hotels in the country. The beach here is spectacular with crowds of palm trees and creamy white sand. The restaurant was very quiet when we visited, with a menu of local and international dishes, priced highly but made with the highest quality ingredients. After lunch we relished the opportunity to have the private beach to ourselves, and walked along in the sand soaking up the midday sunshine.

We continued our sea drive to Owl and the Pussycat Hotel, near Unawatuna Beach. This area is known for its turtle hatcheries, small patches of beach where wounded turtles are rescued and cared for, and baby turtles are protected and released back to the wild.

STAY: Owl and the Pussycat

Fort Bazaar

Day Seven: Unawatuna to Galle

Rise early and go to beautiful Dellawela Beach famed for its picturesque coconut tree rope swing (outside Dream Cabana, pay 500 rs. for a go). We also walked along the train track, which is deserted (most of the time) and surrounded by lush greenery.

Those interested in the finer details of the country’s cuisine can have a cooking demonstration at Owl and the Pussycat Hotel… my favourite part of which was scoffing the incredible lunch afterwards!

From Unawatuna it is just a 20 minute drive to Fort Bazaar Hotel in Galle. Our driver took us a scenic route via Unawatuna Beach and a viewpoint over Jungle Beach.

STAY: Fort Bazaar Hotel

Sri Lanka

Day Eight: Galle to Colombo

Whether you are staying at Fort Bazaar Hotel or not, I highly recommend visiting the hotel for the appetizing breakfast offering. The eatery, Church Street Social, serves indulgent classics like French Toast and Eggs Benedict.

We then spent a few hours to wandering around the whole Galle Fort area, a UNESCO world heritage site. Buy a King coconut juice and walk along the old Fort walls stopping by the Old Dutch Hospital, the lighthouse, lots of other pretty colonial buildings.

For visitors who have a little more time in Galle I’d recommend The Heritage Café for good quality coffee, treat yourself to bespoke jewellery from M.M. Ibrahim Jewellers (one of the oldest in Galle, since 1909), buy locally made clothes at Stolen Paradise, relax with a massage at Fort Spa and in the evening listen to jazz piano with a cold beer on the balcony at Prince of Galle.

When it’s time to catch a flight home it is a two and half hour drive back to Colombo airport.

Other Recommendations: As is common with many tourists visiting Sri Lanka, we hired a chauffeur/driver for our whole trip. We were recommended to Tennacoon by an English friend, and he was very friendly and knowledgable, and gave us complete flexibility to choose what we wanted to do each day – I would highly recommend him. His modern Toyota Prius was comfortable and cool, and he was a very safe driver. He speaks good English and was easy to communicate with both ahead of our visit and while we were in Sri Lanka. Tennacoon works for Walkers Tours and is often booked by UK travel agents (such as Kuoni, Trailfinders and Audley Travel) but can also be hired privately, as we did. Our 7-day round trip cost £415 with unlimited mileage and all of his food and accommodation included. He can be contacted via WhatsApp on +94 77 602 1700.

Fort Bazaar Hotel, Galle, Sri Lanka

Galle is a special little pocket of Sri Lanka, a UNESCO World Heritage site recognised for its Dutch colonial beauty. Located on the coast, a couple of hours South of Colombo, this historic area has become a hotspot for tourists and local holidaymakers. Needless to say, there are plenty of hotels to choose from, ranging in price and style to suit every budget.

Fort BazaarFort Bazaar

The recently opened Fort Bazaar is a hotel that will satisfy and stun any traveller. Found in the centre of the historic town, the Teardrop Group have transformed a grand 17th century Dutch mansion house that was once a private residence for a wealthy family. The hotel is based around a quiet courtyard filled with beautifully-scented frangipane trees, and in one corner stands an impressive 150 year-old Banyan tree. With additional extensions the hotel now has 18 bedrooms, a small spa, restaurant and bar. They are also beginning work on an outdoor swimming pool and intimate cinema space.

Fort BazaarFort Bazaar

The rooms are split into various types: Bazaar are the simplest; Banyan include a balcony; Family Suites can be created by booking interconnecting rooms; and there is one Upper Family Suite, split over two floors with a spacious living space and two bedrooms. All the rooms are decorated in the same style, dominated by shades of off-white, concrete grey and a subtle ‘Monsoon Green’ paint colour. It is a simple but sophisticated look which encourages a calm and relaxed atmosphere.

We were in a pretty Bazaar Room (Number 17), a double room with separate bathroom. It was extremely comfortable for our one night stay, with a luxurious bed and thoughtful touches throughout. When you are not enjoying the comfort of your own room, there are plenty of other charming spaces in the house to enjoy… I loved the library room and the shaded courtyard, where a complimentary afternoon tea is served each day.

Fort BazaarFort Bazaar

The hip Church Street Social restaurant and cafe is a popular haunt for guests staying and visitors from outside of the hotel. We spent a few mealtimes here, enjoying a hearty brunch of ‘Egg Hopper Florentine’, fruit platters, pastries and ‘Cinnamon French toast’. It was a feast of colourful and flavoursome food. Caffeine fans will be pleased with the high quality coffee on offer from “Whight and Co. Ruby Harvest”. The freshly ground Ceylonese beans are 100% Arabica, organically grown in Sri Lanka and single origin. Tea, freshly made juices and mocktails are also available. In keeping with much of Galle, the hotel do not serve alcohol, however guests are welcome to bring their own without corkage charge.

Fort Bazaar

From the a la carte lunch and dinner menu at Church Street Social you can choose from a wide range of Sri Lankan and international dishes. I recommend trying the Cadju Nut & Green Pea Curry (one of the Teardrop Group’s signature dishes), a mild and creamy vegetarian dish with a fragrant and nutty flavour. For dessert we enjoyed the light and palate-cleansing Chilled Mango & Papaya Crumble.

Fort BazaarFort Bazaar

Stylish, thoughtful and affordable I can see why Fort Bazaar Hotel is becoming popular with guests of every age. It is the perfect Sri Lankan retreat for rest, relaxation and recuperation while exploring the busy Galle Fort area.

More information and book a room at the Fort Bazaar Hotel here.