Hicce is one of a few new exciting food ventures to open in Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross. Found on the top floor of the Wolf & Badger store, Hicce is the creation of long time friends Pip Lacey and Gordy McIntyre. Pip previously gained experience working with Angela Hartnett at Murano and Gordy has worked for many top restaurant and pub groups.
At Hicce, Pip uses a specialist holm oak charcoal barbecue to cook the majority of the meat and fish. The dishes showcase the finest seasonal produce and draw inspiration from Pip’s travels. The drinks list features a selection of biodynamic wines, craft beers and creative cocktails, all curated or chosen by Gordy.
The whole menu is intended to be shared, but this concept is particularly obvious in the starter section, where diners are encouraged to make up their own cheese and charcuterie board, paired with homemade breads, chutneys and pickles.
From the selection that we chose, I would particularly recommend the Alex cheese (a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese with a wonderful nutty rich flavour) and the speck meat, which was delicious with the divinely soft and pillowy beer bread. My guest also really enjoyed the Octopus salad, a vibrant dish with generous seafood and zingy fennel and seaweed. Also don’t forget to try a couple of the hot sticks… we liked the Chicken thigh with spicy shiso and crispy chicken skin best.
The main section of the menu sensibly has only a few options, three of each: meats, fish, vegetables and sides. Easily the best plate was the Brussel sprouts, indulgently fried with hazelnuts and kohl rabi. The texture was satisfyingly crisp and they were delicious dunked in the homemade mayonnaise. The Miso potatoes are also a must from the sides, simple barbecue scorched new potatoes served in a puddle of aromatic sweet melted miso sauce.
I really enjoyed my lamb neck with mojo and tomatoes. The meat had a lovely charred flavour, but the accompanying vegetables were a little lack-lustre, presented as a pile next to the lamb. The Halibut with jerusalem artichokes and trompettes was nice, but considering the special ingredients I expected it to shine more.
For dessert we tried Pip’s legendary Creme Caramel with muscovado and the decadent Chilli & Chocolate Tart with Ricotta ice-cream. Neither puddings were exceptional, I liked the creme caramel but found it too sweet and samey, while the chocolate tart would probably have tasted better without the chilli, but I did love the ricotta ice-cream.
It was lovely to try Hicce, and meet the friendly, ambitious team. Though the food wasn’t perfect there is so much potential here, I’m sure they’ll iron out the kinks, and Hicce will become a culinary highlight in King’s Cross’ new Coal Drops Yard.
More information and book a table at Hicce here.