If you go for one hammam in Istanbul, make sure it is at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami. This historic Turkish bath was restored to its former glory eighteen months ago. Dating back to the 1580s, this building has a long and intriguing story to tell. Designed originally by Mimar Sinan, it fell into ruin and it wasn’t until 2005 that Ergin Iren saved this special place as a seven year restoration project. The palatial establishment reopened in 2012 and is now pristine and immaculate in its every detail, the design is simple and minimalist and every aspect is luxurious. It was a great pleasure for me to be able to go inside and experience a tradition that is so important in Turkey’s culture.
It is located in the trendy Karakoy district which with many hip cafes and boutiques is a great area to explore. Before the renovation the bath was only open for men to use. They would come after work or prayer in the mosque to cleanse and socialise. Women are no longer deprived of this treat – since reopening there are allocated hours for men and women to visit separately, they receive the same treatment with staff of the same sex.
I immediately felt a sense of serenity when I entered the cool and calm domed building. The pale refined interior has tables and sofas arranged around a central trickling fountain, all to help you to relax and recuperate. First you are brought a glass of homemade plum juice, a sweet, comforting drink made by the owner’s mother I was told. Then you are given a key and instructed to go upstairs where small changing rooms are arranged with everything you need, and lockers for your possessions. Inside the hammam you are dowsed with warm water and left to lie on the central circular warm stone platform, women were sprawled across it in all positions when I visited, I opted for lying on my back and letting the warm humid air fill my lungs and regulate my breathing. After 20 minutes the staff will scrub you clean and lather you with moisturising soap, washing your face and hair with specialist lotions and potions.
After the session you are wrapped in soft clean towels and guided back to the main entrance. Feeling dehydrated, I gulped down a delicious homemade lemonade wonderfully flavoured with lemon zest. I could have slept there for an hour, I felt so completely relaxed and at ease. Leaving this temple-like building to return to the summer heat outside, I realised how soft and supple my skin was. I felt fresher and cleaner than ever before, and my mind felt much clearer. Revitalising and refreshing, I only wish this kind of spa treatment was more readily available in the UK.
More information here: kilicalipasahamami.com